Monday, December 27, 2010

Orange County Adult Books And Arcade

Photo approach and macro photography: I would start taking macro, really catches my attention and I've seen pictures incredible, but I do not know how to begin or what would be a good starting camera.

The Macro and close-up photography are inextricably in the territory of the tripod, focus on the macro can be something very rewarding or extremely frustrating. Make macro is a test of patience and trial and error. But once you have mastered the techniques to photograph this microcosm, when we fall note that a neglected garden 2 x 2 m can be an endless source of subjects to be photographed, our way of seeing the world is going to turn around 180 degrees.

This post is not a guide to macro, is more like a set of tips on how to get started.

A couple of recommended books (purchased in Lima):

Close-Up & Macro, a photographers guide (Robert Thompson)
Digital Photography
Approach (Michael Freeman)


Here are some links:

Macrofotografía.ORG

Fotonostra: The Macro

Botanical - On Line (Macro techniques)

macro examples in Picasa Web Albums

There are many ways to address this activity, but there are some problems that we must overcome first, one of our main enemy is the wind, very soft this is, once we begin to "macro" walk in the world with a different perspective, with a visual acuity worthy of a lynx, walk facing plants, every speck on the wall, hoping to find some rare bird, a flower so interesting.

Well, suppose you have encountered a strange and colorful insect on a leaf, at the park near our house, we mount the camera on the tripod and we have to take that approach we have displayed in spectacular our minds ... is where we are going to realize that there are close links between the actions of mounting the camera, see the lighting, compose the frame and focus, and once we're ready to shoot, which begins a gentle breeze that makes it impossible take a picture. And this ... always will be (looks like a process automatically set.)

We have three scenarios to start taking macroftotografías, but regardless of the type of camera, we will need a tripod is VERY stable and desirable a GOOD tripod table, I have a Manfrotto Table Tripod with Mini Ball Head head is something heavy (very desirable), very stable and very good quality.



The first stage is to do macro with a pocket camera (point & shoot), I ONLY Lumix LZ8 example is my daughter, a basic model with good benefits (for the price, of course).



The tripod-mounted LZ8

cameras in girls there is a design feature that often makes it impossible Using a lightweight tripod, this is the thread that is off-center loading and the weight of the camera to one side. The weight of the tripod is on our side.

The tripod mount is out camera center


The following are pictures taken with this camera:







To make macro shots must activate this feature in the camera, this is identified by a flower, and adjust as necessary in the optical system to allow for a closer.

Normally in pocket cameras,
can not activate the zoom to take a shot in macro
this should be in the wide-angle, not tele.

The second stage, and better than the last to start, is a bridge or prosumer camera, this camera is bigger, with better optics and usually with better features, but what really helps a lot for macro, is to accept an accessory tube that put zoom lenses (not all models have this capability).

Pongo as an example of this category of my wife Lumix FZ8 is a late 2007 model, but still takes very good pictures.

Lumix FZ8

Comparison with the FZ8 LZ8

The Lumix FZ8 mounted on a tripod

This camera model has a thread where it gets support acrercamiento lens and filters.

tubular accessory to put filters and zoom lenses,
EYE! filters and lenses that are purchased must be the thread
to the diameter indicated in this case 55mm.

accessory attached to the camera

After installing the accessory, which is nothing but a pipe to length for the lens shift and the diameter standard threaded, we can proceed to place carefully, filters or zoom lenses in this case.

Usually these lenses, contact lenses or close up lenses, come in sets of three different measures: 1, 2 and 4 diopters, they allow the camera closer to the subject and allows for better filling the frame and therefore further expansion.

zoom lens set to 1, 2 and 4 diopters.

In this type of lens is a lot of qualities, this photo is a Sunpak of Chinese origin com many peripheral chromatic aberration, which forces them to keep the subject centered in the frame, the cost is around $ 15.00 play in USA. Some lenses are much better B + W , these are Germans, with far superior to those of the photo, I had some and were really good, with some minor aberrations at the edges, its cost is about $ 45.00 c / u. In my opinion the best are Canon , unlike those above have two elements (two lenses) instead of one, and its image quality much higher than those of a single item but its cost is about $ 130.00, well worth it.

attachment with a 4 diopter lens.

If you do not want to go to a scheme DSRL (cameras with interchangeable lenses), I think this is a good alternative, a camera like the Lumix FZ8 (a current model) to accept this accessory tubular, and a zoom lens set how the B + W, or at least one of 4 diopters.


Some photos taken with this camera:









This is normal type of cameras that can zoom in macro, so one can take a photo from a distance, without disturbing the insect you want to photograph. For example, if we have a very small flower like this:

Compare the size of the flower with my finger

Take Closest focusing distance , 90 cm. with macro zoom

Shooting macro zoom lens approximation and a 4-diopter,
The minimum focusing distance is now 21 cm.
Note how far you can fill the frame with the flower.

Obviously I can do cutting flowers grow I would not have the photo, but this is to illustrate how the picture would be full resolution, so i can see clearly the effect of the zoom lens in the frame.

wind
addition, the Macro has other enemies in that level of amplification can not take good macros by hand, since even small movements, how the heartbeat will make our pictures come out "moves." .. solution? ... ALWAYS use a tripod, and make the shot using the camera's timer (if possible).

Another great enemy is the small depth of field, the space before and after the focus, which still maintains an acceptable sharpness. If your camera has manual functions, make possible more closed opening (f: 8 or less) and get good lighting.

The third scenario scheme is to enter a DSLR, this is the most expensive, but it is the best way to do macro, because while we can use one of those Canon lens on our approach normal lens, we are able to buy a specific macro lens, since the sensor size and sharpness of the lenses in these cameras, the macros are going to come out spectacular (when mastered the subject.) Obviamentevamos need a good tripod normal size as a table is not enough for the weight of one of these cameras.

We should note that a zoom lens for $ 130.00 is a lot cheaper than a macro lens and is a good solution as a board intermadia money for that lens, another element that helps us get closer still extension tubes, which are placed between the camera and lens focusing distances get shorter still.


Here the comparison of a bridge camera with a mid-range DSLR:



photos with the Lumix FZ8 Olympus E3 with a lens "normal"
The Olympus is superior in size, higher weight and higher price,
incomparable But its performance is superior,
well as other cameras in the same category as other brands.


As this is a camera DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex), it is possible to buy a specific macro lens, here is one:

Zuiko Lens Olympus 50 mm (100 LFE) MACRO f: 2.0

The Olympus E30 with macro lens

addition there specific macro flashes all costs, this is a Vivitar not very expensive, although not the ideal flash, it helps in macros:

This ring flash is screwed onto the macro lens

The flash put on macro lens Olympus E30


An additional advantage is that these cameras can use remote triggers to prevent movement of the same, here are some photos taken with this camera, I have many on hand, and I are rescuing a hard drive without back up:

Detail of Iris

Mariquita in Canta (Peru)

Small flower ants and a spider (Dominican Republic)

Mantis religiosa (Safford - USA)

Orchid dwarf (Dominican Republic)

Flies doing their thing (Peru)


Some pictures with flash override:


Fingerprint


Details of our ticket ten suns,
look well in the shade around Quiñones.


microprinting Detail in the shadows,
the right side of the image of Quiñones.


For those living in Peru, I put a detail of a ticket for 20 soles (búsquenlo!):

ticket details 20 Peruvian soles, the actual size is 3x3 mm.
Taken with an Olympus E30 with macro lens photo above.


Well!, After this long post, and hoping to inspire more than one, I leave to the next post.

Friday, December 24, 2010

Pregnancy Chanel Cream

Merry Christmas to readers of this blog!

This post is just to send a big Christmas greeting to all readers of this blog, and give them thanks for the readership (which reaches nearly 6,000 entries) for their emails and inquiries ... Merry Christmas to you all!

Carlos Camino

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Making Tile With Bluestone Coping

Photography, technique: how I can photograph the fireworks this holiday season?, Need special equipment? Technical

These Christmas and New Year, we will have an opportunity to photograph fireworks, the only equipment needed is a good tripod to keep your camera absolutely still . If you have any doubts about whether ... need a tripod? ... enter the link above.

addition, we will help a lot if we have any idea where to launch site fireworks, in this way will we know where to point our camera.

Then, once the camera is mounted on the tripod, we must do the following:

.- Orient the camera vertically (portraiture) Level the horizon
.- .- Bring
white balance in daylight (5,200 K).
.- Set the ISO to 100
.- Be aware you need to do some tests with the zoom to achieve the correct framing.

If your camera on a Point & Shoot (small, pocket), see if the functions have a special fireworks (fireworks) otherwise approach a tree, building or tower, which are at a similar distance and then cropping to the place of fireworks. You may have some focus problems (if you have a specific function).

If your camera is a Bridge or Prosumer (larger and with more features), put it in manual, set the aperture at f: 8 (usually the most closed in these cameras) to improve the depth of field; , and set the speed in about 5 seconds, if you have manual focus, make up almost infinite (just before stop). Obviously at the start of the exhibition will refine the focus slightly, after looking at result. If the photo comes out very clear (overexposed) or too dark (under exposed), lower or raise, respectively, the shutter speed two by two seconds.

If your camera is an SLR (interchangeable lenses), set the aperture at f: 11 and the speed at 10 seconds, then the above applies to the bridge cameras.

This could be a source of frustration, because the approach has its difficulties, but with a good starting point, the final tune is faster.

To shoot camera, use the timer (timer), 2 seconds, so the camera will begin taking the photo when the movement and vibration (the result of pressing the shutter) have ceased.

Examples of fireworks footage, acquired on 4 July this year when I was in Frisco, Colorado. This display made on a large dam lake Dillon and ran from the club, I thus knew where to point the camera, got ready and then I made the necessary adjustments on the fly, the results are as follows (please Click on the photos):

15 seconds, f 11, ISO 100

10 seconds, f 11, ISO 100


10 seconds, f 11, ISO 100

10 seconds, f 11, ISO 100
10 sec, f 11, ISO 100

I hope you liked, and this helps, I say goodbye until the next post ... Merry Christmas!

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Free Std Clinics In Jersey City

my desire also



First of all I like people that vibrates, that we should not push, do not have to tell you to do things but who knows what to do and it takes less time than expected.

I like people with ability to measure the consequences of their actions, people who do not leave random solutions.

I like people with his people and strict with yourself, but do not lose sight that we are human and can make mistakes.

I like people who think that team work, among friends, it produces more chaotic than individual efforts.

I like people who know the importance of joy.

I like sincere and honest people, capable of opposing calm and reasonable arguments.

I like people to approach, which is not ashamed to admit that he does not know something or he was wrong.

I like people to accept their mistakes, no genuine effort to make them again.

Like people able to criticize constructively and in front, I call them my friends.

I like people who are loyal and persistent, they do not die when goals and ideas in question.

I like the people who work for results. With people like that, I agree to whatever, and that having people on my side that I paid for it.


Mario Benedetti

With God.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Red And White Checked Italian Tablecloths

, White Balance: A month ago I have a Canon T1i still do not know much but the results in terms of color are very inconsistent, I do not think that is the camera, I think I am. Could you give me some tips?. Printing photos Danitza

Well, what I believe, do not think the camera is nothing wrong, the inconsistency in the color yield is almost certainly due to a wrong white balance (White Balance).

I am convinced that the White Balance is the first thing a user of digital camera should learn, this single issue, learned and executed correctly, will make a big difference with the pictures of those who have not mastered.

Here comes the explanation: the light is not a constant color, not all light sources are the same color, the color of light is different at dawn, noon and evening, but those colors vary according to the height at which we are, it is not the same as a half day at sea level, a half day in the Andes, over 3,500 meters (at sea level the light passes through a thicker layer of atmosphere .)
Nor
light of our artificial light sources is the same tungsten incandescent bulbs give us a "warm glow" (yellow), while most fluorescent give us a "cold light" (white). The candles for instance, have the charm of warm light and cozy, while the white fluorescent give us the feeling of clinic or office, uninviting.

So we can understand that the color of light is essential to get the effect you want in a photograph, and the mishandling of the color of light that we can ruin a photo could have been excellent.

To complicate our lives, scientists refer this color of light as the temperature of the light "giving low values \u200b\u200bof temperature warm light and high values \u200b\u200bin the cold light. This temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin (actually in Kelvin), and here we see an example, and as we noted, the white or neutral light is around 5.500 kelvin ...

Kelvin temperature of light in

Neutra? ... how they neutral? ... neutral with respect to what ... this is where demystify and simplify the issue of temperature of light neutral = white , warm = yellow, blue = cold .

Even saving bulbs, you can read on their packaging if the light that will illuminate us is warm (low temperature) or cold (high temperature), see ...


This is the packaging of a light bulb warm = 2.700 K

Packaging
a cold light source = 6.500 K

Let's put things in perspective: warm light = yellow light, cold light = light blue. So this issue of getting the right colors in a picture, regardless of the light source to use is only a matter of avoiding the photos we go yellow or blue, is a balance between yellow and blue, having that perform the corresponding actions for the balance.

The opposite of blue is yellow and vice versa, and to balance blue excess we must put more yellow, and excess yellow need to put more blue.

And where is most evident if our colors are unbalanced? ... in white, which is why the action of getting a correct white balance is called White or English White Balance. Thus, if our light is yellowish (warm), we need to put a little blue (cool) to balance it and make it white, and if our light is blue (cold), we need to put some yellow (warm) , to neutralize the blue (swing), and that is white ... means?

If our target is really white, then automatically all the other colors correspond to reality without any yellow or blue patina.

Let us see what the manual says a digital camera:


Extracted from the operating an Olympus E-30 (click to enlarge )

According to this table we see that the AWB (Auto White Balance), only works if the scene is a significant portion white for the camera to take it as a reference. In other words if there is a portion of white on the scene framed in the viewfinder, there is no automatic white balance and the result is totally random, this is a primary source of inconsistency in color reproduction.

Then we see that daylight, Olympus fixed temperature 5.300 K (white light), but if we are in a sunny day at noon, and we are in the shadow (shadow) , hence the light temperature will be about 7.500 K. is quite blue. Now, if we are on a cloudy day (overcast) temperature is 6,000 K, ie, blue but not so in the shade.

So when we use the correct light temperature in the menu on your camera, ie not use the automatic balance, the camera introduces, in the case of high temperatures or rather blue, different amounts of yellow, to counteract the excess blue.

Also, if you take pictures indoors under incandescent (tungsten), whose color is warm, that is yellow, the camera will compensate for the excess of yellow blue introducing to offset or balance.

In this way we can fool the camera when shooting a sunset, setting the menu that we are in the shade, the camera automatically compensate for the apparent excess of blue with a yellow patina, which we get the effect ayur yellow-red sunset postcard.

For cameras that have it one of the most useful in terms of white balance is the last item in the table above, for now memorízenlo that in a moment I will explain.

The following is a point & shoot camera for my daughter, is a Lumix DMC-LZ8, with which we to take a series of photos with different settings of white balance.

Lumix LZ8


AWB (Auto Balance)


Daylight ( daylight)


Overcast (cloudy)


Shadow (shadow)



Tungsten (incandescent)


Custom White Balance (custom)
This is what I told them to remember it, look well
Simble
to find it in their cameras

Well, the photos I took around noon, so it is very likely that shadow and see something yellow overcast scene, while tungsten see the same scene, something blue:

Click to enlarge
Here you can appreciate and effect of different settings
to balance the white.

Everything went as planned, Overcast and shadow offset by excess yellow tugsten blue offset by excess to counteract the apparent excess of yellow, daylight car and did very well, being the scene of daylight slightly warmer.

Well, the last one? ... that says Custom White Balance? ... well, that is what should more accurately represent the colors of the scene, not all cameras have this feature, but for those that do, what they need is a sample of neutral white or gray to 18% in my case I have a specialized tool brand Lastolite , and his name is EzyBalance :


Greycard & Whitecard collapsible


On one side is a gray card of 18% reflectivity (Standard)


On the other hand is a neutral white card

Both sides used to the white balance is Show them is the camera which is white or neutral gray to 18% under certain lighting conditions, this is the most reliable and with better results, the white balance if your camera has this function .


"show" Camera what is real white


There are other tools for these purposes, such as ExpoDisk , Lally CAP, Spyder Cube and some other devices similar, but with the same objective, the white balance correctly, one of the best, along with ExpoDisk is card WhiBal , and these are the Instructions for use .

EYE! if you do not have anything at hand, can use a piece of white paper or cardboard, although not ideal, as this does not guarantee a neutral white is better than nothing.

In my particular case, the automatic white balance works surprisingly well, since I have an Olympus E-30 with one very simple and very clever at the same time. Has a temperature sensor light that works surprisingly well.

However I always prefer to do my white balance, and that the final effect makes the difference with no do:

Olympus E-30 with the temperature sensor of light.


Close Up
temperature sensor light

This sensor is constantly "watching" the color of ambient light to make the appropriate balance, they still prefer to do on my own.

And to end this issue, we go to an extreme case, a night shot in a park lit by high-pressure sodium (not my fault, they are called), I mean those yellow lights with street lighting poles: first a photo taken with the camera set in daylight, tungsten and then custom and finally, using my EzyBalance .

With the camera set to daylight, she hopes to white light, so the sodium light poles is as it is totally amber. Note that the light of the urn is about 5.500 K, which is why she goes white, the right color expected by the camera.

When setting the camera to tungsten, thatis to incandescent bulbs, she compensates with blue, but based on a common source of home, being the more sodium light yellow, the amount of blue is not enough to make the right balance, so we still have too much yellow. Now the light of the ballot box is no longer white, it is blue, but she is really white, offset by blue camera to try to balance the yellow.


Using EzyBalance, and under the same lighting conditions, now the colors are correct, in exception of the light from the urn who now accuses the blue excess is necessary for offset the yellow. The light pole in the center of the picture, now if it appears and white colors of the park which now are correct.

can also use a gray card (18% gray card) in the post process, enter here:


OJO! theory currently exists for digital photography what neutral gray is correct 12% instead of 18% as photometers are not 18% in any case also is starting to gray market cards to 12%. I have not yet been tested, but if it works better, I will make the change.



Hoping again that this post will be useful I say goodbye until the next publication.